Beyond the Walls
Following this itinerary means seeing Naples through a different lens.
It means leaving the historic centre behind, climbing the hills, and crossing neighbourhoods that speak of quiet lives and deep-rooted traditions.
This route connects the mystery of the afterlife with the dream of social redemption, through evocative landmarks and often overlooked stories.
It begins in an ossuary that tells of plague, crisis, and devotion, and ends in the grandeur of an Enlightenment-era palace designed to welcome the poor, orphans, and the marginalised — two opposing poles, two faces of a city unafraid to look inward.
Bones and legends: the Fontanelle Cemetery
Located in the heart of Rione Sanità, the Fontanelle Cemetery is one of Naples’ most powerful and evocative destinations.
Born among tuff quarries as an ossuary during times of plague and epidemics, it now holds thousands of human remains — a painful reminder, yet one of the strongest symbols of collective memory.
Visiting its naves means confronting a layered past: the anime pezzentelle, the ritual of “adopting a skull,” legends of the abandoned souls, and centuries-old anecdotes that blend compassion and superstition.
In these stone corridors, Naples reveals its darkest and most human face — a place of abandonment and solidarity, remembrance, and perhaps even hope.
The Royal Hospice for the Poor: architecture of an enlightenment dream
At the opposite end, the Real Albergo dei Poveri embodies a social ideal carved in stone.
Commissioned in the 18th century by Charles III of Bourbon and designed by Ferdinando Fuga, it was intended to welcome society’s “invisible”: the poor, orphans, sick, and marginalised.
An ambitious project blending architecture, compassion, and a forward-thinking social vision.
Today, in a Naples rediscovering its past, the Albergo re-emerges as a symbol of memory and renewal.
Its vast, monumental halls occasionally reopen to the public for cultural events and exhibitions, such as the 2025 show that brought the monumental Refectory back into the city’s narrative.
Walking through its porticoes, sculpted images, and grand courtyards reveals the depth of a city that has long seen vulnerability as a measure of civilisation.
An Itinerary “Beyond the Walls”: seeing Naples from within
This is not just a tour — it’s a cross-cutting narrative through the invisible Naples: one of Christian compassion, care, collective memory, and deep roots.
It invites you to look beyond postcard images and explore the social and historical complexity of a city shaped by contradictions and spirit.
It is a way to understand how spirituality and solidarity are intertwined in the Neapolitan mindset.
And perhaps, it is the most authentic experience a visitor can have — not just to see monuments, but to feel their stories.
